The Chianti territory with its hilly
countryside of incomparable beauty lies in the heart of Tuscany.
Administered by both the Provinces of Florence and Siena, during the
Middle Ages it was harshly contested by these two rival cities until 1555
when the Medicis imposed their hegemony on all of Tuscany.
It is difficult to trace its borders since only the mountains of Chianti in
the East separate it from Upper Valdarno in a natural and neat way; the
remaining territory fades into the hills of the Arbia, Elsa, Greve and Pesa
rivers.
Mediaeval villages, castles, churches, abbeys, monasteries, cottages and
villas lie one after the other in a fantastic itinerary that exalts the
activity and inventiveness of man; centuries of work have modelled the hills
of this region and the alternation of the olive groves and the forests
creates a harmony unique to the world.
The proposed itineraries follow two principal guide‑lines that cross the
Chianti region also suggesting two different ways to "read" the countryside.
Along Via Cassia, or alternatively the faster Florence‑Siena Superstrada,
one can follow again th e paths once taken by pilgrims and wayfarers who,
during the Middle Ages, reached Rome from Northern Europe with everything
that it had to bear: parìsh churches, small towns, hospices, abbeys. Via
Chiantigiana, on the other hand, is a more rural path that throughout its
length crosses the classic wine region.
In any case, the visitor will be offered an unforgettable countryside always
varying and harmonious and so diverse in colours and in atmosphere with the
changing seasons. There are many ways to get to one of the parish churches,
castles or isolated towns, silent witnesses to the historical and artistic
richness of the Chianti region.
It does not matter how one gets there: whether by car, motorcycle, bicycle
or bus, there are many possibilities for staying and enl . oying a few days'
holiday in the relaxing atmosphere of Chianti, tasting the gastronomic
specialties of the region accompanied by wines that have made Chiantifamous
all over the world.
Via Cassia
Today's Via Cassia does not corrispond, in the Tuscan section, to the
ancient Roman road and not even to Via Francigena, the mediaeval trail that
ran along the Valdelsa valley. It was however an important main road that
the pilgrims and merchants took to get to Via Francigena at Poggibonsi.
Since the XV century it was called "strada regia romana" and represented the
main road between Florence and Rome until the construction of the Autosole
autoway.
Since Via Cassia passes through many urban centres and is at times rather
congested with traffic, the hurried tourist may choose to take the
Florence‑Siena Autostrada that can be abandoned whenever one wishes to visit
one of the proposed locations.
Before reaching Via Cassia, Galluzzo's Certosa is worth a
visit. It rises on the hills of Montaguto to the south of Florence. Founded
by Niccolò Acciaiuoli in the XIV century for the purpose of housing young
Florentines who wished to leam the liberal arts. It is surrounded by high
walls, that together with the majestic Palazzo degli Studi bestow upon it
the aspect of a foriress. Preserved inside Certosa, now inhabited by a group
of Benedictine Cistercian monks, are some important works of art, among
whìch there are 5 lunettoni (crescent shaped paintings), frescoes of
scenes of the Passion by Pontormo painted between 1523 and 1525
during his permanence there while escaping the plague that had hit Florence.
SAN CASCIANO VAL DI PESA
Property of the Florentine bishops since its foundation, San Casciano was
annexed to the Florentine Republic in the XIII century and was subsequently
fortified, turning it into a castle of defense against the dangers that
originated in the Sienese countryside. Many traces of the boundary walls and
the mediaeval towers remain even today. The Museum of Sacred Art
set up inside the Church of S. Maria del Gesù holds precious works
of art from all over the region. The altar frontal attributed to Coppo di
Marcovaldo representing San Michele Arcangelo and tales of his
legend and the Madonna and Child by A. Lorenzetti
are certainly the two most important works. Among the principal monuments
are the Collegiata and the Church of Mercy
(or S. Maria al Prato) that preserves a rich patrimony of works of art,
including a Crucifix by Simone Martini.
The churches in the area are numerous and bear witness to the importance of
S. Casciano in the MiddIe Ages, many of which are worth a visit, including
the parish churches of S. Cecilia a Decimo a little out of the inhabited
centre, S. Giovanni in Sugana in the Cerbaia direction; and
S. Stefano a Campoli (dated 903) in the vicinity of
Mercatale Val di Pesa.
We also remind you of the many villas around S. Casciano, including
Villa i Collazzi and Villa Tattoli near Cerbaia and, in S. Andrea
in Percussina, Villa Bossi‑Pucci so‑called Albergaccio,
famous for Niccolò Machiavelli's stay.
TAVARNELLE VAL DÌ PESA
It owes its name to the "tabernulae", the stop‑over and rest points along
the "via regia" that linked Florence to Siena and then to Rome. This area
has numerous interesting churches.
At one extreme of the inhabited area there is the church of S.
Lucia al Borghetto (XIII century) an ex‑franciscan convent
in Gothic style where a precious Crucifix of
thirteenth‑century school and an Annunciation by Neri di
Bicci are kept. Just out of Tavamelle, after leaving Via Cassia, one reaches
Morrocco where it is possible to visit the church of S. Maria del
Carmine, built in the 1400's and then largely remodelled. Inside, a
glazed terracotta of the Annunciation in Andrea della
Robbia's style is preserved, and a serics of fresco fragments
from the 1400's. Not far from Morrocco is the old parish church of
S. Pietro in Bossolo. In the presbytery, there is the
Museum of Sacred Art where works from the churches of small
abandoned towns are preserved. Among some of the most important works we
must mention a series of panels executed in 1473 by Neri di Bicci
for the church of S. Maria al Morrocco and a pall with the
Madonna and Child between S. Martino and S. Sebastiano by the
so‑called Maestro di Tavamelle.
In the territory of Tavarnelle San Donato in Poggio is
definitely worth a visit. It is a small medieval village that still
preserves notable remains of boundary walls, buildings of the 1200‑1300's,
the Renaissance Malaspina Palace, the church of S. Maria della Neve
(XV century) in Gothic style and the Ronianesque parish
church of San Donato where a beautiful baptismal font in glazed
terracotta by G. della Robbia is kept.
From Sambuca along the road to Greve, one comes across the majestic
Passignano Abbey founded in 1049 by monks from the Vallombrosian
order. Immersed in the countryside, surrounded by an intense cultivation of
olives, the abbey is striking for its fortress‑like appearance, with its
walls and battlement towers. Among the numerous works of art preserved in
the abbey one must remember Passignano's frescoes (1601) in
the main chapel and above all the fresco of the Last Supper by
Domenico and Davide Ghirlandaio (1476‑77) in the refectory of the
monastery.
BARBERINO VAL D'ELSA
Founded by the Florentines in a strategic position to resist the expansion
of the Semifonte castle, Barberino still preserves its medieval appearance
with its fortified walls, tower‑houses, the Pretorio Palace
(XIV century), the Pilgrim's Hospital (XIV century) and the
church of S. Bartolomeo. .
From Barberino, following the road to Certaldo, one arrives at the remains
of the Semifonte castle which was destroyed by the Florentines in 1202 after
a long siege. Not long after the end of the 1500's the chapel of S.
Michele Arcangelo was erected, according to a project by Santi di
Tito, to commemorate Semifonte.
Continuing on in the direction of Certaldo the romanesque parish
church of S. Appiano can. be found, one of the oldest to be found
in the Florentine countryside dated around the XI century. The interesting
cross‑shaped columns in front of the church bear witness to the existence of
an ancient baptistry.
After Barberino Val d'Elsa Via Cassia continues on but leaves the Chianti
region. Those who would like to follow it may visit Poggibonsi, Colle Val
d'Elsa and Monteriggioni and then Siena. A deviation from Poggibonsi for S.
Gimignano is highly recommended.
VIA CHIANTIGIANA
It has always been and is still an important main road that links Florence
and Siena and maintains still today a more markedly rural character than
that of Via Cassia. The first part of the itinerary suggested hereafter
initially follows the SS 484 from Castelnuovo Berardenga to Radda and
Castellina in Chianti. It is only here in Castellina that one enters the SS
222 Chiantigiana to go to Florence. In order to get to many of the suggested
points, it wilI be necessary to deviate onto secondary roads.
IMPRUNETA
Impruneta
was already inhabited in the Etruscan and Roman era, and during the Middle
Ages was tied to the political and economic affairs of nearby Florence. The
real propulsory centre of the community of Impruneta was the parish
Church of S. Maria, founded in 1060, that became, in a short time,
an important sanctuary to the Virgin Mary. The church, originally in
Romanesque style, underwent numerous revisions over the centuries, and at
present only the original crypt has been preserved, while the church
presents a sober Renaissance‑style appearance. Inside, works by important
artists are kept, including some by Michelozzo and Luca della Robbia and an
miraculous icon of the Madonna is venerated ‑ which tradition says was
painted by Luke the Evangelist. The veneration of the Madonna of Impruneta
has encouraged the accumulation of precious gifts and votive offerings over
the centuries, which are now kept in the Museum of Sacred Art
adjacent to the church together with miniature manuscripts, gold
and silver. Thanks to the great tradition of the earthenware and terracotta
kilns, the cotto of Impruneta has become a characterizing and distinctive
element of the architecture and of the Tuscan countryside, beyond being a
famous product exported all over the world.
The Buondelmonti piazza, the traditional market‑place, has been made famous
with a drawing by J. Callot in 1620 that represents the Fair of S. Luca in
October. Check out the
tourist website
of Impruneta.
GREVE IN CHIANTI
Greve is situated at the intersection of the roads that Iinked Florence and
Siena and Upper Valdarno and the Valdelsa. It began to develop as a "market
place" for the principal castles of the area in the XIII century. Greve's
main piazza, is characterized by an original formation of irregular
triangular shape, defined by beautiful long porticos. Today it is still an
important point of exchange, particularly on the occasion of the Mostra
Mercato del Chianti Classico (Chianti Classico, Wine Fair) that takes place
there every year in September. The Monterioralle castle
dominates Greve, which still maintains intact the original mediaeval town
structure with a narrow ring‑road that follows on to mect the little
church of S. Stefano, where an. interesting twelfth‑century
Madonna and Child is preserved.
The castles of Uzzano, Verrazzano, Vicchiomaggio and Lamole
are also notable. A short distance from Greve, in the Panzano direction,
Vignamaggio Villa can be found, where, according to
tradition, Mona Lisa ‑ made famous by Leonardo ‑ was born. The Romanesque
parish church of Panzano or S. Leolino, dating back to the X century,
preserves important works of art, including a precious panel with the
Madonna on the throne Saints Peter and Paul and stories of the two
saints, attributed to Meliore di Jacopo (XIII century).
CASTELLINA IN CHIANTI
Long‑standing feudal domain of the Trebbio family, Castellina passed over to
Florence in the XV century that surrounded it with walls making it one of
the most important battlement locations against Siena. The medieval
fort dominates the country, but that which bears witness more than
anything else to Castellina's medieval past is surely the Via delle
Volte, a walkway set into the walls of the town which offers,
limited but exceptional panorama, seen through the arrowslits.
Just outside the inhabited centre lies the Etruscan ipogeo
(underground cave) of Montecalvario, a rather imposing grave for dimensions
dated to the VII‑VI century B.C. that, together with other tombs identified
in various other locations, bears witness to the Etruscan presence in
Chianti.
RADDA IN CHIANTI
Radda in Chianti is on the boundary of Florentine and Sienese territories
and was often involved in troubled historic affairs. It was the headquarters
for the Lega of the Chianti region ‑ an autonomous jurisdiction created by
the Florentine Republic in 1250 which also included Castellina, Gaiole and
Greve.
Apart from the urbanistic structure in an elongated elliptical plan, there
remains in medieval style only a few sections of the periphery walls and
various towers. The Pretorio Palace however, is of
interest, built in the 1400's and adorned with official mayoral stems.
Only a short distance from Radda, in the direction of Lucarelli and Panzano,
indications for the Romanesque parish church of S. Maria Novella
are found, unique in the Chianti territory for its capitals
decorated with animalistic symbols, monstrous figures and floral drawings
that bring to mind the Romanesque parish churches of Valdarno and Casentino.
The Volpaia castle is a small mediaeval agglomeration that
is certainly worth a visit. Inside the walls is a Iabyrinth of little paved
lanes preserved between arches, palazzos and the little Renaissance
church of S. Eufrosino (XV century).
GAIOLE IN CHIANTI
During the Middle Ages it was an important market place, developed along the
road for Valdarno. The numerous castles and parish churches in the vicinity
bear witness to an intense and prosperous agricultural and commercial
activity. Among the castles, which were all established in the Middle Ages,
of particular interest is Vertine, also Meleto with its two
majestic rounded angular towers, Barbischio, and above all
Brolio castle. A patrol walkway runs on top of the walIs
and bastions that surround the town, from which one can enjoy a beautiful
panorama of the Chianti region and the Sienese countryside. The castle,
completely destroyed in 1478, was reconstructed in the last century on
Bettino Ricasoli's wish.
At less than 1 km from Gaiole, the beautiful Romanesque parish
church of Spaltenna is worth a visit, while on the road to
Valdarno, immersed in the green of age‑old fir‑trees, is the Abbey
at Coltibuono. A large part of the majestic complex of the abbey
that was constructed by the Vallombrosan monks is now private property, the
Romanesque church and the massive embattled bell tower.
CASTELNUOVO BERARDENGA
Castelnuovo Berardenga is a southern offshoot of Chianti. The original town
dates back to the IX century when it was a feudal complex called "terra
berardinga", but only a thirteenth‑century tower and a piece of the
periphery wall remain of the old arrangement. However, of architectural
relevance, overhanging the town is Villa Chigi Saracìni
with its large park. |